For our recent vacation, I wanted to sew all the linen things, which included a couple of new tops. So today, I’m sharing a couple of handy summer tops: a linen Inari tee and a linen Hemlock tee.
Following which I ruminate about why tops are a gap in my me-made wardrobe. And, to fill this gap, I’ll finish with a crowd-sourced list of great top patterns from indie designers.
But, let’s start with the makes!
Inari Tee
The Inari Tee by Named Clothing is becoming something of a TNT for me. You can check out my previous versions here and here.
This version was one of those “it’s all about the fabric” makes. I came across this Italian linen at a fabric market but it was absurdly expensive.
40 Euros per metre expensive!!!!
I tried walking away, but ended up walking by that stall and caressing the fabric another three times. It was one of those fabrics that I knew I would regret if I let it go…
But, at that price, 1 metre was definitely all I could buy.
So, I went with the Inari Tee, although hip-lengthed, rather than cropped as designed. All the details of how I lengthen the Inari tee pattern are in a previous post.
For now, all I have to add is that the Inari tee works very well in soft lightweight linen. And, for the first time, I actually sewed this Inari tee with the facing pieces, which I had to date been avoiding due to a hatred of facings. After a few washes though, the facing, like all facings, does want to roll out, so I’m going to have to hand stitch it in place.
Ughhhh. This is why I hate facings…
But can’t be avoided in something like this!!
Linen Hemlock
My other holiday top was a linen Hemlock tee from Grainline studios.
In case you’ve been living under a rock, the Hemlock tee is a FREE one-size fits all top from Grainline Studio that you receive for subscribing to Grainline Studio’s newsletter (all the deets here).
The actual Hemlock tee is designed for knitwear and is supposed to be a lot more oversized than this one. In reality, this top actually bears very little resemblance to the original Hemlock tee, but I used it as my base anyway because I loooove the dropped shoulders on the Hemlock.
This version, has about 2 inches of length remove and a couple of inches removed around the bust and waist. And, most obviously, is sewn in a woven, not a knit!
The original Hemlock includes sleeves. But as these were totally inappropriate for a woven fabric, I went directly from the drop shoulder to a wide bias-cut cuff. The cuff inspiration on a drop shoulder came from a couple of makes I love with this feature, such as the Lois Dress and the Kalle shirt.
Keeping it coordinated…
A great option for finishing of the neckline (and avoiding blasted facings!) is co-ordinating ribbing. This gorgeous ribbing from Merchant and Mills is basically the reason why I bought this linen (from Merchant and Mills too). And I love the finished effect!
Please ignore the off-centre join at the back of the neckband. Last minute holiday sewing. We’ve all been there, right?
Another great option for a top like this would be to do a split hem. For this Hemlock tee, I actually drafted a hem facing and was planning a split hem. I was using this tutorial from Seamwork Magazine to guide me through the process. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the tutorial, but in a moment of rushed sewing, I managed to sew my hem facing to the wrong side.
Twice.
At which point I decided this was way too much effort for a purely aesthetic split hem of only an inch or so in length.
So I decided “screw it” and sewed it up normally.
But if you’re not being an idiot, I maintain my original thinking that a split hem is a great way to add a little touch of class and detail to a simple top like this…
So what’s the deal up top…
I’ll get plenty of wear out of both this babies. Cuz you can never have enough linen.
The Inari tee is definitely the superior fit out of these two. Which is totally unsurprising, since the Inari is designed to be a woven tee and the linen I’ve used is slightly more lightweight and appropriate. And I’m totally aware that I’m pushing the Hemlock pattern to its limits here. So I’m also super-happy with how well the hemlock tee has turned out in the circumstances.
These tops, together with the process of participating in Me Made May, has made me realise that tops are a bit of a gap in my me-made wardrobe. It’s the area where I most frequently turn towards RTW…
The Inbetweeners
In particular, I have a distinct gap in what I think of as “in between” tops.
Less fancy than shirt with a collar, but more fancy than a tee-shirt.
You know that sweet spot?
You can look polished, but casual, wearing it with jeans. But it’s still totally put-together enough when paired with a skirt or proper pants for the office…
I recently put a call out on Instagram asking if anyone had pattern suggestions in this area and was overwhelmed by the responses. The one thing that was clear is that I’m not the only one searching for options in this area. Although I had asked the question for my own personal use, I saw that it seemed to be such a common problem that I have decided to share your collective wisdom…
So I thought I would create a little link party below from all the suggestions I received. Personally, the options that I am perhaps most excited to explore in the future are the Pan top from I am Patterns, the Dove Blouse from Megan Nielsen, the Sointu Kimono Tee by Named Clothing and the Kabuki tee from Paper Theory Patterns. In no particular order there.
So here it is, a link party, drawn directly from the wisdom of the internet.
I love sewcial sewing…
Oh and some of them are even free…
Collins Top from In the Folds
I am Sirius from I am Patterns
Paris top from Orageuse Patterns
Hoya Blouse from Deer and Doe
Suzon shirt by République du chiffon
Aomori Twist Top from Papercut Patterns
The Camber Set by Merchant and Mills
Cuff top from The Assembly Line
Tea House Top from Sew House Seven
Easy Top by Indygo Junction
Hadley Top by Grainline Studio
Anderson blouse and Pussy Bow blouse by Sew Over It
Clover (top version) by Papercut Patterns
Orla shift top by Tilly and the Buttons
Acacia top by Sinclair Patterns
Sorbetto and Laurel by Colette Patterns (Sorbetto is FREE)
Biscayne blouse by Hey June Patterns
York by Seamwork (FREE!!)
Lou Box Top by Sew DIY
Maya top by Marilla Walker
Ruffle Sleeve top from Pepermint magazine (FREE)
So, what have I missed? Any more ideas?
Oh and, finally, a little P.S! If you like to get your blog hits through Bloglovin’, feel free to follow me over there: you can find me here.
Fabulous list thank you! So many I want to try 😄
I would also add the Faura top from Pauline Alice:
https://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/en/pdf-sewing-patterns/49-top-faura-pdf-pattern.html
And how about the Rita top from Charmed Patterns (Gertie):
https://charmpatterns.bygertie.com/shop/rita-blouse/?attribute_sewing-pattern=Print
It doesn’t have to be styled as the vintage look. I made it with the flutter sleeves in a liberty print and it looks great with jeans, denim skirts etc.
Oohh thanks for expanding the list! I especially like the Faura top – looks very versatile!
My favourite patterns are always with Cashmerette where I don’t have to figure out how to do an fba – some patterns are just too complex for me to attempt a necessary fba – for example the Kabuki Tee – and with Cashmerette all that is already done for me. They always turn out perfect! (just to be clear I have absolutely no affiliation with Cashmerette – I just love her patterns 🙂 ) https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/cashmerette-patterns
Very true, often the indie brand we like the best is the one that feels like it’s best drafted for the specificities of our own bodies! I do really like the Monroe’s top from cashmerette.
Thanks for summarizing all your valuable research! Much appreciated