Today, it’s the Arthur Pants by Sew Liberated, designed in conjunction with Debra Weiss of Specks & Keepings.
The short version of this blog post is as follows: these may just be my ultimate pair of pants!
I adore them.
Ridiculously so!!
Do you believe in sewing destiny? Sew-rendipity?
I had being eying of the shape of the Style Arc Bob Pants for a while, after seeing many great versions out there, but I still wasn’t entirely sure.
Then, I bought this navy silk noil from Sister Mintaka and had been planning on sewing something different with it – the Elizabeth Suzann Florence Pants, but again, something was holding me back. One Tuesday evening, I had planned to cut those Florence Pants out but, after putting my son to bed, I felt totally exhausted and had one of those “I just can’t face doing anything at all tonight evenings”. (BTW, speaking of Elizabeth Suzann, the striped tee featured in most of these photos is the Georgia tee).
So that silk noil remained uncut.
Later that same night, while dealing with routine 3am insomnia, I was scrolling through instagram and saw the Arthur Pants for the first time.
Hook, line and sinker!
This was the pattern I had been waiting for my whole life without ever even knowing (ummm, no, I don’t think I’m that prone to hyperbole, why are you asking?).
The Arthur Pants were the destiny which awaited my very lovely silk noil.
Speaking of silk Noil
Silk noil is one of those fabrics that I had heard of but never actually seen. It is made up of the “leftovers” of the production of other silk, made up of silk fibres which are generally shorter than those ordinarily used in silk production.
I had seen it available from North American based fabric stores a few times, but the exorbitant cost of shipping to Europe meant I had never bit the bullet.
So when I saw that Sister Mintaka had it in stock, I went for it.
It has a very slubby, textured look. This particular silk noil is simultaneously quite heavy but also extremely fluid.
Although not usually recommended for silk, I did a wash test, because having a pair of pants that are dry-clean only didn’t sound ideal. It came through the wash well enough that I gave the fabric a pre-wash. I will home wash these Arthur Pants, but I will probably do my best to try to protect the life of the fabric by extending time between washes as much as possible.
Hey, speaking of home washing, does anyone out there want to weigh in on an ongoing domestic argument? Both myself and my husband regularly wear clothes that are not visibly soiled nor smelly for more than one day before washing them. Cuz the environment, water, who has time for all that washing etc.
My other half adamantly maintains that he will simply wear his clothes multiple days in a row because he thinks it’s too gross to put already worn clothes back into his wardrobe.
Me, I say the wardrobe is just fine for garments that have been worn but don’t need to be cleaned yet. If it’s clean enough to wear again, it’s clean enough to go back in the wardrobe. There are no ‘stages’ of clean for me.
So, you know, since the opinion of an internet jury of peers is undoubtedly a wonderful way to resolve domestic differences, who’s right here? Who else puts worn but clean clothes back in the wardrobe?
OK, sorry, as I sit here typing in my semi-clean clothes, it’s possible that I’ve digressed somewhat from the topic of the Arthur Pants!
My Arthur Pants
So, my Arthur Pants are a size 14. They are view A, which features a fly front and an elastic back. View B is elastic all the way around the waist, which I will most likely try too at some stage!
The body measurement chart had me at a size 16, but noting the volume and the flexibility that comes from having elastic in the waistline, it was safe to size down. I’m really happy with the finished size. I feel like it has the relaxed, but kind of tailored, volume, whilst being only slightly huge.
Sewing the Arthur Pants was a really enjoyable experience. The instructions were top-notch.
I feel that I have made a very well-finished garment here. The pattern calls for as many seams as possible to be flat-felled (yep, even the inseam) and where not physically possible, French seams are used, unless it is a seam which is enclosed anyway (e.g. the waist).
So these Arthur Pants actually have some really clean and pretty insides. And I found the whole process enjoyable, never feeling that those flat-felled seams were tedious or too time consuming. Honestly, I only considered replacing a flat-felled seam for an ordinary one once (and I didn’t do it!!).
So fly…
Sewing the Arthur Pants also introduced me to a different technique for sewing the fly.
My go-to fly sewing technique is that contained in the Ginger Jeans, which includes “grown-on” fly extensions and takes as its starting point a front crotch basted together from the point at which the fly will be, with you then installing the zipper and fly shield from there.
What’s your first reaction when you see a sewing pattern provide a different technique from the one you’re used to?
I have to admit that my first reaction is often “aghhh, something new! Take me back to my comfort zone! Immediately!!”.
I contemplated substituting the technique in the instructions for the one I was more familiar with but I think all that flat-felling must have instilled an uncharacteristic courage in me.
So, I decided to follow the new technique and see how it went. This technique involves separate fly extension pieces to be sewn into the crotch.
I’m not going to describe the technique in detail because there are thousands of more accomplished technical sewists out there who can help you learn how to do new things in your sewing practice. Here, it’s more about sharing the sewing experience, the highs and lows of a sewing practice, rather than helpful details!
Hope that confession doesn’t lose me too many readers :-)!
I’m pleased to report that all went smoothly with the new-to-me fly installation technique. The instructions were easy to follow for a first-timer. And while I found the method less intuitive (or perhaps simply less familiar) and I couldn’t always envisage how my steps were going to work out in the end, they did!
The “Arthur Pants” technique (OK, it probably wasn’t invented for the Arthur Pants!) also made it easier to manipulate the zipper head out of the way and therefore sew close to the teeth all the way along, compared to the technique I had been using.
So, all-in-all, not only do I have a pair of exceptionally well-finished Arthur Pants, I also learnt some useful new shit!
Hell, yes!!!
Speaking of learning, I also used a higher quality elastic in these Arthur Pants than usual. My local fabric store pretty much only has a couple of kinds of elastic, none of which are fabulous, but it’s all that’s available. This time, I added some elastic into my most recent Meter Meter order and I’m pleased to report that it was soooo much nicer. It didn’t stretch out at all when being topstitched in place, so I am now a firm convert to the power of high quality elastic.
If only, it was more readily available!
Finally, for the sake of completeness, my only modification to the Arthur Pants is added belt loops.
Arthur Pants forever
I’m not going to lie, I’ve fallen hard and fast for the Arthur Pants.
They are supremely comfortable and create just the look I wanted. These Arthur Pants actually create the kind of oversized but tailored look I was dreaming of when I made these Burda Style pants, but the Arthur Pants just does it in a way that is much more fashion-forward.
No frump factor at all!
Not too much of infinitely higher quality!
My sewing queue for this autumn has basically been transformed to “more Arthur Pants” in every colour.
So, Arthur and I may just be back together again, pretty soon!
Oh and, finally, a little P.S! If you like to get your blog hits through Bloglovin’, feel free to follow me over there: you can find me here. And you can find me on Instagram here.
What a beautiful pair of trousers! I haven’t seen many of these out in the wild and they have a smart yet casual vibe about them. Well done on the flat-felled seams – I really love this finish, it looks so great on the inside, even though I’m the only one who appreciates that!
Just a few comments on your domestic disagreement. We wear clothes for multiple days, although not always several days in a row (because you know how English weather is, and it tends to yo-yo, so one day you’ll be wearing a t-shirt, the next a jumper). But we have a different storage tactic (and we both do this), we leave the worn, but clean clothes on our bedroom chairs. The only problem is that at some times of the year the clothes pile can get a bit high…..like when the weather suddenly turns hot and you have a pile of warm clothes still on the chair. Still, it mostly works for us.
One of my pet peeves though is how clothes smell after they have been in the rain. Noticed that this didn’t happen during lockdown – so must be down to all that pollution.
Thanks for weighing in! I do this sometimes too, I leave them over my sewing chair (cuz my sewing corner is in our bedroom) but clutter drives my hubby nuts too! Plus, there’s so much getting up and down with sewing that I always knock those clothes off and it bugs me. I’ve often wanted an armchair for our bedroom but I know it would become a permanent clothes storage unit. Hubby keeps his “not yet dirty enough” clothes in the bathroom but keeping clothes in a damp room drives me nuts (so I hear ya on the rain smell)! Anyway, thanks for indulging me on the domestic squabble!!
The pants look lovely!!
Like Nicola, we have an in-between solution and will leave worn-but-clean clothes loosely folded on the tops of our dressers or in an open-topped storage bin. I have no problem with multiple wears, but do not like wearing the same thing two days in a row.
Yessss were not out here wearing the same shirt a few days in a row! I put mine back in the wardrobe but I frequently give clothes a trip to the drying rack to air out in between, as not smelling insurance.
Haha “not smelling insurance” – love it!!
I have been sewing with silk noil for years and have always machine washed it. It’s meant for daily use, not special occasions! Dark colours, esp black, can fade with washing. I just overdye it once that happens and continue to wear it to death. Elasticized portions can wear a little more than others – I’ve noticed that especially on a pair of silk noil pyjama pants I made, which get washed more often than other pieces.
A always wear clothing multiple times before washing, and used to leave the worn pieces out of the closet but no longer do so. I want them to look good when I wear them again, not like they’ve been hanging around on furniture! Actually, I very often put the worn article on a hanger, spray it lightly with plain water and give it a good snappy shake to take out the wear wrinkles. Then I hang it in the closet a little bit separately from other clothes until it is completely dry before returning it to its “proper” place in my closet. I’ve noticed that when my husband takes off his shirt at the end of the day he hangs it but does not put it away in the closet until he checks it the next morning. If it passes his smell test, he puts it away then! We think the closet is for all clothing that is ready for us to wear, not just freshly laundered clothing. Otherwise, our bedroom would be covered with clothing that has only been worn once or twice and might not be worn again for weeks!
Your pants look fabulous on you! I think the silk noil was a great fabric choice for them.
Couldn’t agree more that the closet is for all clothes ready to wear! Thanks for backing me up!
Ok i have a typo to report but only because I rly want to know what your third to last sentence was meant to be!! I clearly get the gist but a sense of completion ya know
Love those deep pockets and how swooshy the pants look! Nice job.
I definitely put clothes back in the closet to wear again (after a quick sniff test 😉).
I was looking at these pants forever but thought that these would look bad on a fuller figure like mine. I am similar size as you so you have convinced me with that post. And pockets, must always have pockets! I think the zip technique you describe it is the one I always use 😉
On a washing bit, I put my linen dresses back into wardrobe after a day wear as they still smell and feel fresh. My other half keeps his pile next to the bed and wears few sets over days before wash so all good here.
3 am insomnia? Got the same fur the past 7 years or so. #3amclub? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ok, I am off the sew liberated online shop.
Thanks for taking the time to share. I feel that the exaggerated shape of the pants creates a nice balance and so I really like the silhouette it creates on my fuller shape! Hope you enjoy it!! You can use your 3am insomnia to think about your next steps in your sewing project, like I often do!!
Oooh these look awesome! I especially love the look with shirt and sneakers.
I’m firmly in your husband’s club – we hang worn clothes on the bathroom door and towel hangers. We both commute by bicycle so clothes that are “worn but clean” do not exist for us. We also wear the same clothes multiple days in a row (well, I do – my partner usually has a stash of worn clothes on the bedroom bookshelves that he always forgets are there and the state of their cleanliness).
Thanks for taking he time to share all your lovely and also the not so Perfect makes! This is so helpful. The trousers look great on you- made me thinking about daring to go wide-leg sometime…
One word on the worn-clothes-discussion: aesthetically I‘m fully on your side – I hate chairs buried under piles of stuff! I‘m just a bit weary of drawing moths inside my wardrobe- they are drawn by even the slightest body-odours. So piles on the bathtub-sides it is…
I *live* by your reviews. My measurements are similar. So when I want to know whether or not to buy a pattern, or whether to size up or down, I just hope that you’ve sewn it already; usually you have! I’m just about to print this pattern and was wondering whether to size down from a 16 to 14. I *love* the way yours look. Sizing problem solved 🙂
So glad to be helpful! Sizing down is definitely way to go – the elastic makes it flexible anyway!!
Could you elaborate on the elastic??
I was looking online for some Arthur Pants made from jersey fabric but somehow came across your post and wasn’t disappointed. Yours look fabulous!
I love mine. I’ve made two pairs so far, one linen and another a poly-cotton blend. I live in them! They’re so comfortable that I must confess I had plans of sewing other patterns but just can’t for the time being. I need more Arthurs in my life 🙂
As for the wardrobe conundrum, I definitely have to qualms of returning items to the wardrobe after wearing them. Woollen items, for example, are self-cleaning and so aren’t washed often, can you imagine the pile of stuff I’d be left with if I never returned them to Where They Live?
Having said this, I do have a drawer for the clothes I know I’ll be wearing again soon, so some do end up staying away from the rest of the wardrobe. Maybe this is a good compromise for your other half?
Anyway, thanks for sharing your make, it looks great on you and I’m fired up to make another for myself! Have a great rest of your week.
Do you think it’s possible to make these trousers without the flat felled seams? Hurst sew them right sides together like a regular pattern? I was wondering whether to try a quick n easy version and wait until I have the time and headspace to do a flat felled version!
Yes you could absolutely make them with regular seams. You might have to adjust the SA a little but the pattern is so loose and easy fitting that you might not even bother doing that! You can use elastic at the waist to ensure they fit where it matters!