Sooooo, it seems that when the weather improves I sew Amy jumpsuits! And today I have both a regular Amy Jumpsuit, together with a hack of the Amy Jumpsuit with the Blanca Flight Suit which, in my humble opinion, is frickin’ awesome. Both patterns are by Closet Core Patterns.
A Bl-Amy jumpsuit. Our perhaps an Am-ca?
Yeah, ok, I’ll stop with that!
I sewed my first Amy Jumpsuit in 2019.
In 2020, I made three hacked versions, where I added the Amy Jumpsuit’s wide flowing legs to other patterns.
You can read about my previous Amy jumpsuits and hacks here, here and here.
In fact, I sewed the last one, the navy linen hack of the Fibre Mood Carmella Jumpsuit with the Amy Jumpsuit, right before the Blanca Flight Suit pattern was released. When the Blanca Flight Suit was released, I remember thinking, damn I wish I had waited because Blanca is actually the perfect “top half” to my wide legged jumpsuit fantasy.
So, basically, I’ve had this idea of combinging the top half of the Blanca Flight Suit with the bottom half of the Amy Jumpsuit swimming around my brain from the moment the Blanca Flight Suit was first released.
And I’m happy to report that, in the bringing to life, it fully does justice to my original vision!
Amy Jumpsuit
Just to keep you on the edge of your seats, I’ll start with a new “original” Amy Jumpsuit.
The Amy Jumpsuit by Closet Core Patterns is currently only available in the size 0-20 size range, so it only caters to a maximum hip of 122cm or 48″
My unhacked version of the Amy Jumpsuit is made out of this viscose I purchased from Stragier tissus. The blue and rust tones are right on form for my colour palette and I couldn’t resist (although I am trying, in general, to reduce my consumption of viscose due to its terrible environmental impact).
My starting point for this Amy jumpsuit was a size 12, the size I had cut out from two years ago when I first sewed this pattern.
I did, however, add an extra centimetre at the side seams, to be on the safe side, thus bringing this to something closer to a size 14. Based on my previous version, I scooped out the jumpsuit under the arm by about one centimetre and I also added an inch into the torso. The latter is a common jumpsuit adjustment to me – I never knew before I begun to sew that I had a long torso!
I also slightly scooped out the butt curve to make it a little more D-shaped, just to give myself a tiny bit more room up there and avoid wedgie-ville.
Apart from these minor tweaks to adjust to my body, this is the Amy Jumpsuit in original form. And, I have to say that I still really love it. There is just something about the shape that makes me feel so incredibly swishy! For some reason, I feel secure in my assumption that feeling “swishy” is a good thing!!
I also think it is a pretty good pattern for layering – even all the way through winter with a turtleneck and tights, so I’m hoping it has plenty of longevity!
Alright, alright, you’ve indulged me, so now we will go on to the pattern hacking!!
Blanca Flight suit and Amy jumpsuit mash up
Starting with fabric, this is a viscose linen blend from Blackbird Fabrics, however, I have recently discovered that I can buy a fabric which is indistinguishable from Stragier Tissus, which is much more affordable if you are located in Europe!
My starting points for this mash up was the size 12 bottom half of the Amy Jumpsuit and the size 14 of the Blanca Flight Suit as my top half. Having previously sewn the Blanca Flight Suit, my top half included a few tweaks, like a full bicep adjustment and a raising of the waistline, which you can read about on the original blog post for the Blanca Flight Suit. The Blanca Flight Suit is currently available up to size 30, catering for a maximum hip of 155cm or 61″.
Mashing the two patterns together was straightforward. I started with the waist part of the bottom half of the Blanca Flight Suit (the top couple of inches of the pattern) and re-drew the crotch curve and leg shape by tracing off Amy.
I had a bit of pattern mashing uncertainty as I was doing this as I wasn’t sure whether to use the grainline of the Blanca Flight Suit pant leg, which was the basis for the “waist part” at the top of my pattern piece or the grainline of the Amy Jumpsuit. Thanks to everyone who jumped in on my instagram poll on that question.
The outcome was that the grainline for the leg should be perpendicular to the floor, which, in this case, effectively meant using the grainline from the Amy Jumpsuit pattern piece for my modified piece.
As much as I adore the Blanca Flight Suit pockets, I knew they wouldn’t work best in this lightweight fabric, so I skipped the Blanca Flight Suit pockets and went for the in-seam pockets of the Amy Jumpsuit, although I extended them a little at the top so that I could anchor the pockets into the waist seam to keep them neatly in place at the front of the jumpsuit, rather than flapping around like flags in the wind.
I kept the waistband at the back only and added ordinary belt loops to hold the waist tie.
I also added a few tiny details which I took from the Reeta Shirt Dress by Named Clothing, in particular the pleated chest pockets and the use of a sleeve turn up to create a faux cuff.
All in all, this mash up came together easily and I absolutely adore it!
This is, simply put, my dream jumpsuit!
There will be more in my life!
I feel that when pattern mashing, widening legs is a pretty good entry-level hack, with enough flexibility that it’s all probably going to work out well.
One little thing I noticed when sewing the Blanca Jumpsuit zip is that, this time around, I feel that my zipper shield came out a bit big and it now looks a tad strange unzipped. The instructions clearly warn you that the size of the zipper shield was a matter of preference and that you may wish to modify or omit. However, as I thought I had no issues with my first Blanca Flight Suit, I just did it according to the pattern.
Nonetheless, perhaps my zipper is a slightly different width as this zipper hasn’t came out quite as smooth as my first Blanca Flight Suit and I do prefer this one zipped all the way up.
But, I’m seriously grasping at straws to complain about something here!
In reality, this mash up of the Amy Jumpsuit and Blanca Flight Suit just brings a huge smile to my face each time I wear it!
If you want to see more of my sewing adventures, you can find me on Instagram here.
Beautiful! I really love the color, great choice of fabric. Congratulations.
BTW, there are more sustainable options for viscose. The Austrian company Lenzing produces it in a closed loop, which means that there is no polution and no harm for the people in the factory. The lyocell Lenzing produces is called Tencel, but there are plenty of fabric makers that use Lenzings product for their own brand, like Atelier Brunette or MeetMilk. Try Ansje.eu, a wonderful Dutch fabric shop online.
Bye, Barkcloth, Amsterdam
Thanks! Indeed, tencel is probably my most used fabric after linen!! I just run into the moral dilemma that I really love this specific fabric and have never found a tencel equivalent that fills precisely the same hole!!
Agreed! Aren’t printed tencels a bit of a gap in the market?! MeetMilk has us pretty well sorted out for monochrome tencel but it’s the variety of prints that keeps viscose going, in my opinion. But I’ve noticed a few printed tencels starting to emerge at local shops here in Belgium, Lanalotta.be has a couple.
Really pretty hack, by the way, and the rust colour looks great on you!
I totally agree! Will have to check out lanalotta
I love your posts and this one is fantastic. I found you while looking for a sewist with a similar body type to me. I enjoy your can-do spirit and enthusiasm. Thanks for sharing!
Hi, I noticed you make full biceps adjustement often. Can you recomend me a tutorial or an advice?
Love all yout makes!
I found this post really extensive and interesting: https://www.sbccpatterns.com/blogs/news/a-better-way-to-adjust-the-bicep. Although I often just do a lazy « slash and spread »!