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Today I’ve got not one but two variations of the Fibre Mood Colette dress to share with you all.

This pattern comes from edition 10 of Fibre Mood magazine, released back in 2020. This issue is, by far, my favourite ever issue of Fibre Mood magazine. I’ve sewn SIX of the patterns from it: Fibre Mood Agatha, Fibre Mood Elma, Fibre Mood Betsy, Fibre Mood Ida and Fibre Mood Ulla (some of which I have yet to blog about!). And there are still three more patterns in it that I can see myself sewing one day!

Now that’s a great issue, right?

So, the pattern of choice today is the Fibre Mood Colette. It’s a princess-seamed sundress which looks like a shirt dress, but actually closes by way of an invisible zip at the side. This means that it is extremely secure and you have no risk of any button gaping, which is a great quality in a sundress!

The pattern also includes another great feature – adjustable strap lengths! However, I didn’t include this feature in my own version as I couldn’t get my hands on the necessary hardware.

Fibre Mood Colette: Classic Version

I had a special fabric in mind to sew for this project: a checked linen that I bought in person during a visit to Merchant and Mills. But, as it was a beautiful and not easily replaced fabric, I first wanted to test out the patten.

So I decided to go for a wearable muslin in pink linen.

Does anyone else like to ‘audition’ a pattern when you have a particularly special pattern in mind?

The straps and the closure is designed so that the Fibre Mood Colette can be worn bra-less. But, in my view, if something is designed to be worn bra-less, I want at least two layers of fabric for protection. No-one needs to see visible nipples when a cool breeze kicks up.

So my first step was to modify Fibre Mood Colette by adding a lining to the bodice.

As I added a lining, I also decided to remove the elastic in the centre back of the bodice, so I have changed the bodice shaping somewhat with this modification.

My other hack is that I have added 15cm in length to the pattern.

Apart from that, I set out to make the Fibre Mood Colette as designed. Based on my body measurements, I cut out a size 20 at the waist, 18 at the bust. But, my version came out HUUUUUGE on me. From the bust down to the top of the patch pockets, I removed 4 centimetres from each side seam to get it to fit at the waist (but note what I said above about how I needed to alter the back bodice due to my choice to line the bodice – this will explain some of the excess).

The other practical point I will note is that the pattern says you need a 40cm zipper for the dress. Of course, every body will be different, but I only had a 22cm zipper on hand. So I tried it out with this and it worked fine. It’s plenty of room for me to get it on and off.

Once I got the fit right around the waist, I was over the moon with my test Fibre Mood Colette.

The bust apex was hitting exactly where it needed to.

And I really have a weak spot for princess seams as a form of bodice shaping.

I still remember when I was 17 and had to wear a formal dress for a high school graduation type ceremony. I was at my Nana’s house (she was a seamstress), trying on a gorgeous dress that my Aunt had worn that I had been in love with for years! My Nana declared that princess seams really suited me.

Now, 17 year old me, didn’t actually know what princess seams were and was insufficiently interested in sewing, textiles or clothing to ask. But the comment stayed with me.

And now every time I put on something with princess seams, I kind of want to twirl around and think about how Nana really did know best.

So, yes, I have an affinity for princess seams.

Fibre Mood Colette: Hacked version

Now, being decidedly chuffed with my first version, I was ready to move onto the main event of cutting into my lovely checked linen.

I decided, however, that to have one less seam to ‘match’, given that the shirt front closure was faux anyway, I would go without and make it a more straightforward sun dress.

I’ve again added a lining so that I am nice and secure when wearing this bra-less.

Also, as the back view of the gathers in linen was my least favourite part of my pink Fibre Mood Colette, I also decided that I would swap out the gathered skirt for a circle skirt.

To do this, I started with the skirt pieces of the Fibre Mood Agatha pattern and adjusted the waist size to fit the bodice of my Fibre Mood Colette.

And, of course, I added side seam pockets.

Again, not much to say here, except that I am very happy with my hack. I guess sometimes making a muslin is not so terrible after all. And now, I have two great dresses, not just the one!

I’m still not quite sure which one of the two versions is my favourite.

But, what can I say, issue 10 of Fibre Mood magazine strikes again!

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