This Holly Dress is my first foray into the Fibre Mood world and I’m rather chuffed with it!!!

I’ve somehow managed to not really notice Fibre Mood until recently when, after perusing their most recent issue, I promptly bought myself a year’s subscription plus a couple of back issues. Because, in all honesty, if, hypothetically, I could only sew Fibre Mood patterns for a year – I don’t think I would get bored at all.

There is simple so much good stuff going on in there!

And so, this Holly Dress is my first time going from ogling Fibre Mood patterns to actually sewing them.

But first, permit me a brief digression here, if you will.

The other day, my 4 year old was watching a cartoon in which Simon the rabbit became very upset because his little brother Gaspard kept copying him. Until Simon’s Papa explained to him that Gaspard only copies because he thinks Simon is so fabulous that he wants to be just like him.

Well that’s kind of how I feel about Julie over at @joliesbobines. From whom I have unashamedly copied this Holly Dress!

Even before Julie had published her version, I had already been ogling the latest release of viscose Mind the Maker print from Meter Meter. It is everything I love in a fabric – my perfect colour scheme, geometric, large-scale print…

I hadn’t purchased it yet as I was trying to show some restraint in fabric buying. Then I saw Julie’s version of this dress and crumbled into an immediate, “well if I just put it on the credit card I won’t actually be paying for it until next month’s pay check” puddle.

My Fibre Mood Holly Dress

And so, my first Fibre Mood pattern did not disappoint. I frickin’ love this dress!!

I sewed a size 44, based on my measurements. I think the finished dress has come out true-to-size, although I would maybe prefer a little extra room in the hips, so this might be something I need to take into account when sewing future Fibre Mood patterns.

As there will be more!

I really like the way that the Fibre Mood magazine include an abbreviated diagrammatic instructions for all their sewing pattern. More detailed instructions can they be downloaded online for free. For this pattern, I found that I was able to simply use the abbreviated version in the magazine, without needing any further instructions.

Holly Dress: My modifications

I did make a few modifications for personal preference.

I thought that this lovely viscose really lent itself towards french seams, so I used french seams everywhere that wasn’t enclosed except the back seam, which has the zip in it.

Due to some trepidation on my part over French seaming the armhole, I decided to ensure that I attached the sleeve flat, rather than in the round, so I changed the construction order a tad to accommodate this.

I also added an in-seam pocket into my Holly Dress. Which I placed slightly too low because, somehow, anytime I add a pocket in myself without guidance I have a special talent for placing it at a slightly awkward position.

Awkward pockets are my super power!

But, instead of being upset at this I’m choosing to focus on the fact that, for the first time ever, I french seamed a side seam which included an in-seam pocket!

Go me!!!

A little note on my French seaming adventures, I think that this may also be why my Holly Dress is a tad tighter around the hips than I would prefer. The patterns in the Fibre Mood magazine require that you draw in the seam allowance, so I drew in a 1cm seam allowance. I then decided to French seam it all. Obviously, it would have made more sense if I had first decided to do the french seams and then added in a larger seam allowance.

Lessons for next time!

I actually loved the Holly Dress pattern so much that I’ve already made a second one! I haven’t been able to photograph it yet but as soon as I do, I’ll add a little update to this post. It’s in a heavier weight fabric and I love it just as much as this one…

UPDATE**4 November 2018***

Here, she is, Holly Dress #2 in a heavy-ish weight barkcloth!

I love this version just as much as my first one!

This fabric is the Gertrude Made Outback Wife Elaine barkcloth which was really popular a few years ago. I have been hording it for a couple of years now because, well, barkcloth is a bit heavier than normal and it doesn’t necessary work for every project.

A bit of an aside here, I had been searching for this fabric long after it was sold out everywhere, when Miss Maude in New Zealand suddenly got hold of some more of it out of nowhere. As I knew I would be visiting my parents in Australia before long, I just had it shipped to my parent’s place. When I finally opened the package there, after gushing to everyone about how I had this wonderful, sold out, impossible to find fabric, I opened it up to proudly share and my Mum was like “it looks like a curtain”, my brother’s take on it was “it looks like an old lady’s couch” and my husband’s perspective was “it looks like wall paper”.

Well, me, I frickin’ love it!!

For this Holly dress, although the fabric is much heavier than is recommended for the Holly Dress, I thought that the print would be so perfect that I decided to give it a try.

The verdict is that I think it actually works really nicely in a heavier weight fabric too, as long as the fabric still has a bit of drape. This version feels very substantial and warm for autumn and winter days. I think it may actually suit me even better than the viscose one because the extra oompff of the fabric helps it to hold its shape really well.

I didn’t size up from my viscose one, but if I did it again, I would probably do so. The heavier fabric makes it feel a little tighter around the shoulder and armholes, so it’s not quite as comfy as my first version. Sizing up would definitely have solved those problems though!!

Hmmm, what else?

I also did a lazy sleeve cuff, in which I didn’t actually bother to sew the sleeve placket and buttons because, well, this is going to sound weird, but I hate having cold wrists. Just having a nice cuff without any opening is just cosier for me.

It’s also easier!

Finally, since I knew I would prefer to wear this belted, I attached the belt ties in at the back zipper, so they are fully anchored and will never slip down mysteriously into the back of my closet.

Haha. Beck 1. Pesky waist ties 0!

And speaking of that zip, I think this is one of the most invisible invisible zippers I have ever sewn. I actually took the time to first hand-baste the zipper completely in place before sewing it. Not only did this give me great control and precision, it really didn’t take that long at all. I’m definitely a convert!

Mind the Maker Viscose

This fabric is beautiful and makes my heart go all a flutter. It was, however, a little sensitive to work worth, as fine viscose can sometimes be.

My machine loved trying to suck it down into the plate, so I often had to use the ’tissue paper under the fabric’ trick when starting seams off, to ensure it didn’t become a delightful brick and navy coloured snack for my bobbin.

The few times I didn’t do this and the fabric did get sucked down, it caused some damage and runs along the fabric.

I sewed my Fibre Mood Holly Dress using the finest universal needle that I had on hand (I think an 80), but I have a feeling that this viscose might have been a bit happier if I’d had an even finer needle, or perhaps a microtex needle.

On the first day I wore it, the dress also got a few runs in it, which I’m in the process of patching up.

So, in my experience, this fabric is beautiful but delicate (as many printed viscose are…).

But still probably worth it!

Because, after all, now I can swish around imagining I look half as put-together as @joliesbobines!!!!

Oh and, finally, a little P.S! If you like to get your blog hits through Bloglovin’, feel free to follow me over there: you can find me here. And you can find me on Instagram here.