I got me some sewing machine problems.

Recently, my beloved basic beginner brother model (Brother XT37) stopped working. So, of course, I turned to Instagram for advice. I was totally blown away by how many of you took the time to tell me about your sewing machine and why you love it (or not!). Your responses were so helpful – I mean, @the.final.stitch even offered to let me come and try her machine out! Sewing people are just the best!

So I wanted to distil the information I learned from you all, as well as my subsequent research, into this post. So here is the lowdown on what I’ve learned so far about taking the plunge and investing in a good quality sewing machine.

Spoiler alert: it’s still a work in progress. I haven’t actually bought a new sewing machine yet!

So what do the cool kids sew on?

But, before I launch into it, just for fun, here’s what I’ve learnt in my research about what sewing machines our favourite sew-lebrities use! Tilly is a Janome-woman all the way. Heather Lou from Closet Case Patterns is all about Bernina, with Gertie also having a Bernina 1008. And Elisalex from By Hand London can be found pfaff-ing about on a Pfaff Quilt Ambition 2.0. And the Queen of Colour Oonaballoona seems firmly in love with a mechanical Pfaff.

And what if I’m just starting out?

The aim with this post isn’t to talk about buying a beginner sewing machine. I found that there is quite a lot of information which is useful about beginner-level machines already out there. If you’re just starting out, I would  recommend buying a cheap sewing machine from a well-recognized sewing brand like brother, janome, pfaff, singer, elna etc. that’s what I did and it has served me well for 5 years. Not bad for under 200 euros.

The only other piece of well-trodden advice which I think is invaluable to beginners is, if you can, buy it at a sewing machine store, not online. They can show you how to thread it (really important when you’re starting out) and it’s very common to even include a beginner lesson about all the machine’s functionality.

Time to invest!

This post is about buying a ‘beyond basic’ sewing machine. When you know sewing is now a part of your life and you are ready to invest in your hobby and passion.

When my machine stopped working, I ultimately decided to repair it. For now. It feels pretty inefficient to pay 100 euros to repair a 5 year old machine that cost 200 euros in the first place. But, I decided it was worth the money to buy myself some time to properly figure out what new sewing machine to invest in.

And as I start out on that journey, I have to say that the world of beyond-basic sewing machines is rather confusing  so far. I feel like in 5 years of sewing, I’ve learned sooo sooo much. About garments. About style. About fabrics. Yet, I feel that I’ve learned basically nothing about the precious machine that makes any of that possible!

Do I need an “investment” sewing machine?

The first question I’ve been asking myself is: do I even need a new sewing machine?

My basic machine has sewn everything I’ve thrown at it. I’ve never  felt limited by it. It does one-step automatic buttonholes, has a free arm, it’s easy to thread. It’s sewn jeans and wool coats without batting an eyelid. If I was confident it would last, I probably wouldn’t be searching for a replacement. But this latest experience has shown me that this baby won’t last forever. Even now that she’s back, her engine doesn’t sound quite the same as before and I think I did her some damage trying to force her to go when she didn’t want to, before taking her for repairs.

So it’s become clear to me that my sewing machine is going to give up in the not too distant future.

But there’s still a big question in my mind. If a beginner machine can meet all my sewing needs, do I really need an upgrade? I could buy a new basic model every 5 years for the next 30 years and still spend less than some of the investment models I’m considering below! Does anyone else have a lot of conceptual difficulty with the idea of paying 1000 bucks for something that you know a machine that costs 200 bucks could also do.

Sure, it’s not done as well, but it’s still done, right?

In this great podcast, which I think is invaluable listening if you’re thinking of investing in a sewing machine, Harvey Federman compares moving from a basic model to a high quality model as being similar to the difference of a basic and luxury car. Well, I cycle everywhere, but even if I didn’t, frankly, I would never buy a luxury car when a more basic model can get you from A to B just as well. So this comparison didn’t quite speak to me, and I’m still feeling a little uncertain about why I shouldn’t just stick to basic models.

Of course, don’t get me wrong, I really, really want a fancy machine. But can I justify it? The podcast talked about “just knowing” when you needed to upgrade, when you have outgrown your current machine. I don’t have this feeling, I feel more forced my circumstances. But, at the same time, this could just be because I lucked out with a great beginner machine. In the end, I think this is the main factor which goes against the “buy-a-new-beginner-model-every-5-years” approach. The fact that I can’t guarantee I will always pick a good one. And the last thing I want is a sewing machine which will cause me endless frustrations.

Mechanic or computerised?

Leaving that aside for now, the next question and, for me, probably the key one, is: mechanic or computerized?

As I’m sure you all know, a computerized model uses a computer-based interface to control the machine, whereas mechanical is all knobs and buttons. I’ve only ever used a mechanical sewing machine. But from what I read, computerized models can offer more mod cons, power and precision control.

If I had to describe what I really want in a sewing machine in one sentence it would be: a machine that lasts me the next 20 years. Like my mum’s machine and hers before that. This desire leaves me leaning towards mechanical. A computer just can’t last 20 years.

But when I try to concentrate my search on mechanical models, I feel rather lost. There doesn’t seem to be a lot out there when you are looking at new sewing machines. There are mechanical options at the level of basic beginner models, like the one I already have. Or, of course, there is the Rolls Royce Bernina 1008. But between these extremes I am finding very little in the way of a mid- range mechanical sewing machine.

Any ideas?

This lack of choice has got me thinking that maybe I need to be more open to the computerised option.

The quirks of Dutch customer service

Since I live in a foreign country where I don’t speak the language, I have some additional difficulties in conducting my sewing machine research. I have to find out what is available to me locally, but then then search out information about those machines in English. Since, you know, it’s useful to actually be able to read the labels.

I already tried to curtail this process by going into my local dealer and asking for help. But, while there is a lot I appreciate about living in Holland, the Dutch don’t really do customer service – at least in the Anglo-Saxon sense.

I told the salesperson that I wasn’t sure if I should repair my old machine or upgrade. In my world of customer service expectations that’s a huge invitation to “please-sell-me-something”.

Her only response was “you have to decide”.

Which is totally true. You can never fault the Dutch for being straight forward and honest. And I do appreciate the lack of a hard sell. But sometimes I would benefit from a bit more engagement!

You see, the way customer service works here is that you will only ever receive an answer to the exact question you ask. If you say “tell me about machine x” and the store has a machine Y which is absolutely identical but half the price, the store won’t tell you about machine Y. Because that’s not what you asked!

So, armed with this knowledge of this particular quirk of Dutch customer service, I need to be very well informed before going back in to test some models. It’s up to me to make sure I have the right questions ready.

Sewing machine love and the objectivity problem

All of which leads me to another reason it’s hard to pick out an investment sewing machine. This  became very clear when I asked people on Instagram about their sewing machine recommendations.

Simply put: most sewists love their machine.

Which makes a whole lot of sense.

Hell, I love my basic machine, even though this entire post is about replacing her.

Let’s face it, we love our hobby and the machine is the key object which makes this hobby possible. The majority of home sewists don’t  have an opportunity to sew on a range of machines.  Unless you also sew for a living or happen to be  a sewing teacher, most of us just don’t get to compare a large array of machines.

So it also makes a whole lot of sense that we generally love the machine with which we have, over timed, developed a close connection.

This same “objectivity problem” leads me to also take other bloggers’ views with a grain of salt on this issue. Usually, when faced with a sewing problem, sewing blogs are my first source of information. But I’m finding here that quite a few of my favourite bloggers are “Brand Ambassadors” for one brand or another. Don’t get me wrong, I totally trust them when they say they love their machine and that their opinions are entirely genuine. But, if even the average person who paid for their sewing machine is predisposed to think in positive terms about their machine, surely this has to be even more the case when you received the machine for free!

DXYGHC 5362 Pro Sky Deluxe Innovation

I definitely find the way sewing machine manufacturers name their machines to be pretty incomprehensible.

And ridiculously unhelpful.

Blah blah DXY6000 etc. etc. tells me nothing. It’s not easy to remember. It doesn’t say anything about the features of the machine. It also seems to be that manufacturers will have various series of machines with letter/number combinations which seem similar to me but actually denote an entirely different range of machines. When you are looking at these kind of titles, it can be hard to tell which series or range of models is actually higher-end compared to others (especially since the high-end version of one series of models, might have similar pricing to the low-end model of the next level up of machine). Plus, the names and available models seem to differ from region-to-region, making comparisons and seeking reviews somewhat difficult.

The practical effect of this is that when you do find posts or articles about “5 best intermediate sewing machines” etc., they often amount no more to a link party to models that aren’t even available in your region!

As far as using names that actually help go, I definitely found Pfaff a step above the rest. Pfaff’s system of using names, instead of letter and number combos, really helped its sewing machines stay in mind, compared to the  Janome and Brother machines I’ve checked out.

Pfaff’s names also usefully tell you a little bit about the level of the machine, with “Passport” opening the door to the world of sewing and “Ambition” being about expanding upon it. It’s such a simple thing but it has actually enabled the names of the Pfaff machines to stick in my head, which is really important when you are looking at dozens of models!! In fact, so far, I have to say that based purely on the availability of clear information and straight-forward model comparison charts, if I decide to go the computerised route, I am learning towards one of the Pfaff Ambition models. I’ve also decided I’m quite intrigued by the Pfaff IDT system (Integrated Dual Feed), which seems to “build in” much of the functionality you would ordinarily need a walking foot for.

But where’s the side-by-side

I also noticed that there seems to be a lack of comparable basic information about sewing machine options. This exists both within brands, where it is difficult to compare different models of one brand (again, except Pfaff – seriously people, just market your machines like Pfaff – you will sell more!!!), but also across different brands.

While you can generally find lists of the available machine features, I would also like some more fundamental information that enable me to compare totally different machines. Like how powerful is the engine? How many stitches per minute does she do? I found the lack of this kind of information which, granted, is probably peripheral to the question of machine features, nonetheless frustrating. Where the market is saturated for choice, this kind of information could be useful for distinguishing between similar models.

So, how much am I up for?

Another thing that has surprised me is how quickly the price-ranges jump when you are exploring sewing machines.

In all honesty, when my machine stopped working, I thought, no-big-deal, I’ll replace it with a mid-model. I was thinking around the 300-500 euro mark. In my mind, I felt like my beginner machine cost 200 euros, so if I now spend about 500, I should be getting a major upgrade.

I’m doubling my investment, right?

But once I started to look into this price range, I am no longer sure it’s true.

I  find that the 300-500 euro price range is soooo saturated with (computerised) models that I feel entirely unable to distinguish between them. And then I start to feel uncertain about whether  I am  definitely going to get something of better quality than my current machine in that price range. It’s only when I start looking at reviews and features of models in the  700-1000 euro price range that I start to feel that, feature-wise, I am undoubtedly confident that I would be getting something better than what I already have.

And, unfortunately, the price range I’m considering goes beyond even that – a new Bernina 1008 is 1250 euros! Ouch!!!!

So I am definitely struggling to find a machine that inspires me in what I thought was my original price range. Some sewing machines that you guys recommended on instagram in this range were the Brother DS140, Janome Sewist 525 and Janome DKS100. Not all of these are available where I am, but I will definitely try out the ones I can, to see how they feel.

But how to actually do it?

So, all of the above is to say that investing in a high quality sewing machine is not simple.

So, tangibly, how to go about doing it right?

Even though my local sewing machine specialist doesn’t necessarily have the most helpful approach to customer service, I will definitely go back in person to test a bunch of machines. Let’s face it, there are plenty of good machines out there. So a lot will depend on what feels best under my own hands.

Here’s the kit I was planning to take into the store with me to “test drive” the machines I’m interested in: (1) some lycra or super stretchy fabric, (2) silk or very delicate fabric and (3)  some denim or canvas. I am very interested to see how the machine handles each kind of fabric and whether there is a need to make a complex series of adjustments for the machine to handle the different fabrics.

I was also going to take in a narrow sleeve, to see how it fits over the free arm. And, just to throw them a curve ball, I have a leftover denim belt loop from my ginger jeans. It’s definitely coming in with me so I can see how the models I’m auditioning sew through thick layers of denim. I was also going to bring in top stitching thread to see if the machine can handle it.

Also, after reading a few reviews online, some good advice seems to be to try changing the presser feet and needles, to see if you have any personal issues with their placement and line of vision. Also, from my own experience, my current machine has a weird quirk that you cannot install super fine needles in it, they just fall out. So I will try to also install a range of different type/size needles.

Any other ideas?

The salespeople are going to think I am totally nuts, right???

The grocery list

I also think it is important to go in with a list of what is absolutely essential to you and what you can live without. Having only used a basic mechanical model, I feel that I have an advantage here in that there is a range of creature comforts out there that I’ve never experienced. Like automatic thread cutting. This means that I’m not going to miss them (even if maybe I just don’t know what I’m missing…)

For me, I absolutely need an easy buttonhole setting (preferably one step, but I could be flexible here if it is otherwise easy), the ability to sew through layers of denim an, a nice narrow free arm, free sewing capacity, fully adjustable stitch length and width and an ability to handle top stitching without creating a thread nest party. I would prefer something a bit speedier than what I currently have. I would also like LED lights and a good overall lighting situation, since my sewing corner has some lighting issues.

And, since this machine lives in my bedroom and my hubby and I see it everyday when we first wake up, I  want something that’s not ugly. Which sounds superficial, but man there are some butt-ugly machines out there. The prettiest machines (excluding vintage machines which are, of course, stunningly beautifu), in my opinion, seem to be the Husqvarna-Vikings, but I have seen some unhappy customers with repair issues venting online, which worries me enough to avoid the brand.

Beyond this, some things which would be nice to have would be automated thread cutting and tie off and the ability to reverse without having to hold down a lever.

Things like having a million stitches available, the ability to write letters and the ability to programme my own stitches/patterns etc. are  meaningless to me. I will never use them.

I feel that clearly understanding my priorities and needs is a key step in walking away a satisfied customer.

And the winner is…

So, if you were hoping for a post which would tell you what machine you should buy, sorry. This post is more about approaching the process. Because I really believe that there are many sewing machines out there which could be just perfect, if they are matched with the right sewist.

So, to sum up, how am I currently inclined?

I’m still not totally sure. A biiiiig part of me wants to save up for a Bernina 1008. My list of requirements and my desire, above all, for a long lasting heavy-duty machine makes me feel that I am an old-school mechanical girl at heart. I read an Instagram comment from someone who said that her design school used  Bernina 1008s. She pointed out that if they can handle everything that experimenting design and textiles students could throw at them, they can truly do anything. That’s pretty persuasive reasoning in my books.

In all honesty, all that’s holding me back is the price and the lack of a one-step buttonhole.

But when I think about whether it’s actually justified to blow 1250 euros on a sewing machine, there’s a voice in my head that starts to say  “Beck, be reasonable!” And, while wearing my reasonable hat, I start to think that Pfaff seems to offer a range of models that, if I decide to give computerised a go, will be more easy for me to navigate and understand. Plus, there is that IDT, imagine non-wavy knits for zero effort….

So, watch this space.

For now, I’m putting aside a little bit of cash each month while my repaired beginner beauty serves me well for, hopefully, another year or so. And while I do some more research and test out machines and decide what is right for me, I’m kind of hoping that a well loved and cherished second-hand Bernina 1008 might somehow find her way towards me.

I’m checking the classifieds daily…

 

Finally, a little PS, if you like to get your blog hits from Bloglovin’, feel free to follow me over there: you can find me here.