So today I’ve only got a simple tee-shirt to share. But I kind of feel like I’ve got a whole lot to say, so let’s so how this goes.

Perhaps an apt sub tittle for today’s post, just to give you an idea of where this is all going is: the trials and tribulations of linen knit.

So, let’s take it a step back.

If this is your first time on the blog, my name is Beck and I adore linen. In all its forms. Linen knit being no exception!

About a year ago, I purchased three lovely shades of linen knit from Meter Meter. They became a regular turtleneck LB pullover, a modified boat neck LB pullover and a Ruska knot tee.

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Unfortunately, only one of those makes still survives today and the reason for that is a lesson of what to do and what not to do with linen knits!

Meter Meter Fabric Club

A couple of months ago, I joined Meter Meter’s Fabric Club. Hang with me, I promise this isn’t a total tangent.

I had been watching the Fabric Club for a while but, in all honesty, I kind of resisted the idea of actually joining. There was something about the idea of paying money to receive fabric samples I didn’t choose myself that just, well, kind of didn’t seem right.

In the end, it was a realisation that made me change my mind. After visiting The Fabric Store in person in Australia in February, as well as thinking about my visit to some lovely fabric stores when I went to London last year, I noticed that when I stalk the fabric stores I am about to visit online, in anticipation of a visit (because, of course this is the first thing I do upon realising I’ll be travelling somewhere), I usually end up actually buying fabrics other than the ones I had planned to online.

Because, well, nothing beats seeing fabric in person.

Which made me think that receiving a curated selection of samples on a monthly basis from a store whose products I consistently love, might not actually be a terrible idea after all.

So I joined the Fabric Club.

In May’s Fabric Club box, there was a selection of all the colours of a new wave of light linen knit in stock at Meter Meter.

There have been a couple of things that have surprised me so far in the fabric boxes I have received. First, when I have samples of all the colours available in my hands, I find that I am picking slightly different colours than I would have if I had just made a choice online.

The second thing which has surprised me is that each month there is an accompanying page on Meter Meter’s website where there is a range of additional information about the fabric, its origins, use, challenges of sewing etc. I’m finding this information fascinating and, I really learned a lot from it about using linen knits.

From these informational pages, I realised that my previous makes had fallen prey to two of the biggest pitfalls of sewing with linen knits. The mint green coloured boat neck LB pullover I had made has stretched out at the neck ridiculously over time, until it looked so sloppy and baggy I couldn’t bear to wear it. That’s because linen knit does not have good recovery and will continue to stretch over time.

If you let it.

The Ruska knot top hasn’t survived because it is too tight around the neck and arms. As linen knit doesn’t have the same ‘give’ as a regular jersey, you need to use it for patterns that don’t rely on stretch in order to fit.

Sound advice, again garnered from the wisdom of the Fabric Club, is to treat a linen knit like a woven and use it for patterns which you could also make in a woven.

Another useful tip was to use fusible bias tape over seams you do not want to stretch out over time. Keeping in mind my boat neck experience, I have used it in my Renfrew tee at the neckline and the front of the arms, as well as at the hem line to try to prevent waving and on the pocket.

Renfrew top: beginner vibes

So, let’s get to this actual make then?

I used the light linen knit in rose to sew the Renfrew tee from Sewaholic. The linen knit, when it arrived, did not disappoint. It is breezy and lovely and has a beautiful sheen to it which gives it some depth. On my cut piece, there were a few holes right along the selvedge to watch out for. It is lovely but definitely a bit on the delicate side.

I chose the Renfrew tee because, after my experience with the Ruska top and boat neck LB pullover, I wanted a neck line that would definitely fit over my head but not stretch out too much over time. So I was in search of a scoop neck tee, which I actually found more difficult than expected.

Crew and v-neck tees seemed to be everywhere, but there’s not as much available with a scooped neck.

I had a sudden realisation as I scoured the internet for patterns that one of the first three patterns I ever purchased when I first started sewing was the Renfrew tee by Sewaholic.

Does anyone else remember when Colette and Sewaholic were pretty much all that existed when it came to the indie pattern scene?

It’s amazing how far we’ve come.

So I realised that I had a paper copy of the Renfrew top that I had never actually used. In addition to the scoop neck, it has that pretty rare combination of being a fitted tee pattern that doesn’t actually rely on negative ease to fit, which made it perfect for my linen knit needs.

My Renfrew tee is a size 16 which is the biggest size available. The size range isn’t the only way that you can see that the indie pattern world has really matured over the 6 years or so since I purchased this pattern. The instructions were fine but I found them doing things which were obviously designed to favour simplicity, but, in my view, just don’t cut it. For example, sewing the neckband and cuffs with the seam allowances remaining exposed, rather than with a clean finish.

My Renfrew top

I modified the Renfrew top, view A, by adding a chest pocket, skipping the waistband and doing a full bicep adjustment (adding about 4 cm in total).

In terms of methodology, I changed the assembly methods to ensure clean finishes at the cuff and neckband. I also added in clear elastic at the shoulders to prevent stretching out. And, as already mentioned, I followed Meter Meter’s tip to place fusible bias binding over the top of seams I don’t want to stretch out.

I also attached the sleeves in the round not the flat. Now, I have to say that, as a lazy sewist, I had been sewing my sleeves flat anytime the opportunity arose. But I recently saw a great post by Mie of Sewing Like Mad which pointed out that sleeves generally hang better when sewed in the round, rather than flat.

Now, I’m not going to lie, I have about zero comprehension as to why this is the case. But Mie is basically a Sewing Goddess, so if she tells me to do something I will listen.

I’ve even been marking my notches since I read your post, Mie!

The sleeves are still, however, the one part of this tee which didn’t turn out quite like I expected. The cuff hangs a little strangely off the sleeve, perhaps because of my full bicep adjustment (although I obviously did adjust the size of the cuff but I think the adjustment to the sleeve is impacting the angle at which the cuff hangs off it at certain points).

This means that I have to roll the cuff up which makes the overall sleeve a bit shorter than I would have wished.

At the beginning of this project, I actually really debated whether to turn the sleeve into a butterfly sleeve, as I think it would have looked lovely in this fabric. However I also wanted it to be a long lasting layering piece, so fancy sleeves were eventually abandoned to practicality.

All in all, sleeves notwithstanding, I’m really pleased by the classic tee I have managed to create and I’m fairly confident that with all the additional built in precautions, this linen knit make will stand the text of time.

Have you managed to sew succesfully with linen knit?

Or do you have a pattern that’s been hiding in your stash without being sewn since your days as a total beginner?

Oh and, finally, a little P.S! If you like to get your blog hits through Bloglovin’, feel free to follow me over there: you can find me here. And you can find me on Instagram here.