My little family was lucky enough to take a holiday to Japan last month, visiting Kyoto and Tokyo. So bring on some vacation fabric shopping! Apart from the “how will I fit this in my suitcase” part, this is probably one of the most enjoyable forms of fabric shopping there is.

In this post, I am going to share with you what I have made with my fabric haul from Japan so far: a Colette Macaron, a Colette Sorbetto and a lovely gathered skirt. I will also share a few musings on Japanese style, how my trip has influenced my sewing life and offer a few tips for anyone lucky enough to go fabric shopping in Japan.

Polka dot gathered skirt: Spots a go-go

Gathered skirt. Dirndl skirt.

I’m not sure which one is technically correct. Since I don’t come from an alpine region and, to me, the process of making it felt more like gathering than “dirndl-ing”, I’m going to go with gathered skirt.

Doubling down on the double gauze

Japan is known for its double gauze cotton and this was the first time I’d had the chance to come across this lovely fabric. As I’m sure you all know, it’s two gauze-thin (think of bandages) layers  of cotton basically sewn together in a fine, barely visible grid. It is very soft, easy to work with and comfortable to wear. Recently, I’ve started to see it appearing more in fabric shops in Europe. Bring it on!

When I saw this irregular spotted double gauze, it looked so summery. I am really feeling these colours –  navy, pink and pale blue –  at the moment. I am trying to find new ways of enjoying colour without looking like a walking rainbow, so this fabric felt “spot on”.

This is just a plain old gathered skirt with a waist band and zip. I self-lined it, so you are looking at quadruple-gauze! Now that I have seen double gauze, is there such a thing as triple gauze? At least in light colours like this. This fabric was too thin to go unlined but, after self-lining, four layers is a bit too much. Triple-gauze would have been perfect!

I can’t say I used a “pattern” to make this, but when I made my first ever gathered or dirndl skirt, it was using the instructions in Tilly’s Love at First Stitch.

A one-pocket pony

Oh and I have included a single pocket!

I promise it was deliberate. I just couldn’t be bothered cutting the back of my skirt in two pieces so that I could have a back zip, but I really wanted pockets! So a pocket it is!

I find pockets indispensable. Since my son was born, I have my hands full much more often! Also, at work, I use an access badge constantly and I hate lanyards, so pockets are essential. But how often do you use both your pockets at once? This isn’t the first time I’ve employed the one-pocket trick. Since this skirt is quite voluminous, the lack of balance isn’t even visible.

Oh and please help me…

On the topic of volume, I have a gathering question for all you technical experts out there. When gathering by sewing in a couple of rows of long  stitches and pulling the tails, I’ve always wondered about the rationale behind sewing multiple rows. Is it insurance (in case one thread breaks)? Or do the multiple rows of stitches actually perform a technical function (e.g. is it easier to gather evenly with multiple rows)? Sometimes, I’ve even stumbled across patterns calling for 3 layers of stitches just for the purpose of gathering. Frankly, I always just say NO.

All in all, I really like this simple little number and think it will be doing the rounds this summer. I especially love that it looks cute with Breton strips. Anything that lets me get away with wearing spots and stripes together is a winner!

Colette Macaron

This is my second Colette Macaron. I like this pattern a lot. The feminine details, vintage vibe and flattering shaping of Macaron exemplify Colette patterns at its best. Also, I have a lot of skirts that flare out at the waist in my wardrobe, so Macaron’s straighter silhouette is a bit different for me.

This fabric almost wasn’t mine. After a couple of rounds through Nomura tailor in Kyoto, it wasn’t amongst those I carried up to the cutting table. I saw it being cut for someone else and it just seemed to call my name. So, after a few gestures in which I probably looked like I was trying to direct a plane on a tarmac, this fabric found its way into my tax-free shopping bag!

This was one of those makes where I thought the entire way through that I’d cut it too small. I eecked every millimetre I could out of the seam allowances and, in the end,  it fits just so – what a relief!

The devil’s in the detail

I have two favourite features of Macaron. The first, most magical detail, are the pockets tucked away inside the front pleats. They are just so perfectly placed and hidden away. Whenever I use them, I feel like Macaron and I are sharing a little secret. For me, the construction of these pockets was one of those major “just trust the pattern” moments. I was like, umm, am I really supposed to just  cut  into my lovely skirt piece?

The other detail which is gorgeous is the shape of the sleeves – they have a very subtle v-shaped finish. They are constructed by sewing together two identical arm pieces, so no hemming required. If, like mine, your yoke is transparent, keep this in mind. It means that your sleeves might end up looking “darker” than the rest of your yoke.

A sleeve, a sleeve, my kingdom for a sleeve

Sleeves are often the part of a dress that I find it hardest to be satisfied with. Too long. Too short. Too plain. Too puffy. They are also the part that I have the least confidence in modifying (except for very basic things like length). Yet, I find dresses with sleeves vastly more wearable and work-appropriate than sleeveless. As a result, I often end up experiencing sleeve disappointment in my sewing.

But, as Goldilocks put it, the sleeves on Macaron are just right. Enough detail to look sweet but without being over the top in what is already a pretty detailed and girly-girl pattern.

But Baby got Back (problems)

My only bone of contention with Macaron is that I wish the back bodice was about 2cm higher. With both my Macarons, I have had visible bra problems. Not just visible bra strap but visible bra.

I accept that visible bra strap is unavoidable with a transparent yoke, but I have found that at the back only, a little bit of the bra itself is actually visible. My first Macaron was sleeveless, so I ended up wearing it almost all the time with a little cropped cardigan. But a cardigan is not going to sit well over these lacy sleeves. In the end, I can just about get away with being bra-less in this one, simply because I am an A-cup and it is a very tight fit, but that’s not a solution for everyone.

I really wish there was some way to make the Macaron back bodice piece fall just 1.5cm higher without altering anything else (I love the front bodice exactly as it falls – I don’t want to raise it at all!). But that’s impossible right? I thought about just drawing a subtle curve across the back bodice piece to make it higher but I think that will look funny and there will still be visible bra issues at the side edges. Or is there something I’m missing?

Fix it or chuck it?

This is my second Colette Macaron, my first having been the only time I splurged on this lovely liberty print for the shell. I loved my first Macaron too but I recently had to throw it away after several years because the sheer fabric I used on the yoke had started to fray. I know that I could have made a new yoke and saved the dress, but my dirty little secret is that I have major difficulties sewing repairs.

It feel so uninspiring!

My poor husband makes a tear in the seam of his pyjama pants and it takes me three months to sew it up for him! With a repair, I don’t get that feeling of creating something . The thrill is gone. Half the time, I am more likely to just throw something away and make an entirely new garment.

And I guess that’s how this Macaron No. 2 was born …

Colette Sorbetto

The last of my makes so far with the Japan stash is a Colette Sorbetto.

This fabric is the only purchase I made in Japan where I gave in to my kawaii urges. It has little black and orange dogs (or maybe they’re foxes or wolves, I’m not really sure) tucked away in the fabric. My son has decided they are dogs and he loves it when I wear this top. He pokes at the dogs (most usually the ones in the bust area, since he is often in my arms) and shouts “woof-woof”. Imagine what that looks like as the two of us walk down the street…

When I got back from Japan I was determined not to turn all of my purchases into dresses. In order to increase wearability, I was committed to sewing some separates. But, since I rarely sew separates, I didn’t know where to start. I realised that I didn’t really have a single woven top pattern that I actually liked, so I started checking out my favourite pattern makers and was thrilled to find Colette Sorbetto!

Who doesn’t love a free pattern? A free pattern that even has sleeves! Three cheers for Sorbetto!

This was a very simple and quick make. Separates feel so speedy to sew…

The boxy shape is not my usual style and I must confess that I had to resist the temptation to mess with it too much.

Actually, I’m lying. I did mess with it too much. It didn’t work.

After I had sewn my side seams, I tried it on and decided to take a bit of bulk out of the sides, which was fine. But I still felt it looked a bit sack-like on me. So I thought I could maybe try to give it some more shape. I tried to add in two vertical darts to create shaping around the waist. However, I didn’t take much (any) care with measuring and placement (you know, how important are those to sewing, really?).

It looked awful! So straight to the quick unpick and I’m sticking with Sorbetto as it was intended.

I find my Sorbetto totally wearable and my son gets super-excited whenever he sees me in it!

And I sewed something that is not a dress or a skirt!! Yeah for me!!!

Sew, getting back to Japan …

Apart from these lovely fabrics and a much-needed two weeks with the men in my life, I am also grateful because my trip to Japan made me reflect on my style and what I want to get out of sewing.

First of all, I have never been anywhere before where everyone looks so effortlessly stylish. Clothing was simple but well-thought out and classy. I came home thinking that “I need to dress more like a Japanese woman” should be my fashion mantra.

The same lesson was also staring me in the face while I was packing for our trip. With all the things we needed to bring along for our son, my husband and I decided to travel light. In preparation, I did some looking into the concept of a capsule wardrobe. While I love all my dresses way too much to ever fully commit to that, I  need to make an effort to build more flexibility and freedom into my wardrobe by thinking more about separates, colours and coordination.

If you’re lucky enough to be heading to Japan …

If you’re going to head to Japan yourself soon, I have nothing to add to all the wonderful information about fabric shopping in Tokyo and Kyoto that I found in these posts from Cashmerette  and Tilly and the Buttons. These were great resources and the advance information really made it possible for me to fabric shop on the go with a tired two year old in tow!

The only thing I could think of to add is a quick tip for in case you’ve worn out the sewing goodwill of your other half/family members/friends and you need to “accidently” stumble across some fabric shops. In Tokyo, I would definitely recommend spending a few hours exploring the Yanaka district. It was the only place in Tokyo where I didn’t feel somewhat overwhelmed by people. I had a lovely time stumbling around, discovering old temples and wandering through atmospheric cemeteries. When you come out of Yanaka towards the JR Nippori station, you are almost in the fabric district! You just need to convince your travel companions that you should all go just a little bit past the station in search of food, drink, whatever. You will soon find yourself “spontaneously” discovering Tomato and all the other fabric stores.

One of the best things about fabric shopping on vacation is that sense of sewist comradery. When you travel half way around the world and find yourself in a fabric store filled with other people who also cared enough to research in advance how to find this place, you are reminded how special this hobby is. I felt like part of a secret society of sewing and fabric lovers.

Which, really, is what we are, right? Just not so secret…