Today I’m sharing my version of the The Assembly Line Wide Leg Jumpsuit.

This pattern is available catering to a maximum seat measurement of 139cm. It is available using The Assembly Line’s strange price structure where you can chose to buy the pattern in either XS-L or XL-3XL, or, if you want all the sizes, you have to pay an extra 5 euros for both sets of sizing. I still fail to understand why people who may simply fall in the middle of the size range (L to XL-ish) should pay 5 bucks extra in order to have all the sizes they may need available to them.

My version of The Assembly Line Wide Leg Jumpsuit is a size L.

I have sewn this Assembly Line Wide Leg Jumpsuit using Tencel Spot Jacquard from Meter Meter, which has a slight stretch to it, lovely drape and is still quite substantial. This is the blueberry colour way.

The fabric works really well for this pattern and I’m pleased with it. It’s weighty enough that I can wear it during autumn and winter but is not so bulky that I can’t easily slip a turtleneck underneath. The texture of the jacquard spots also creates a nice visual interest.

Speaking of jacquard, did you know that the technology which created jacquard is also at the origins of modern computers???? Just one of the fascinating things I learned while reading The Golden Thread.

I’d had this fabric in my stash for more than a year but, when I went to cut out this jumpsuit, I realised I didn’t have enough and had to order a metre more.

I’ve been trying to concentrate more on sewing through stash fabrics. But when fabrics have been in my stash for so long that they are now being used for a purpose other than originally intended, I keep running into this wall of frustration that there just isn’t enough there! It’s the third time this has happened to me in a month!!

Zadie jumpsuit?

Now, in my humble opinion when one sees this pattern, especially from the front, it’s a tad difficult not to want to draw comparisons with the sewist’s darling the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory.

And I love the Zadie Jumpsuit. I’ve made this one. And these two!

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Nonetheless, there is just one little tiny thing about the Zadie Jumpsuit which I don’t like and which inspired me to try the TAL Wide Leg Jumpsuit instead.

The Zadie Jumpsuit relies fully on its wrap nature to get on and off. And I find that, on my body, when I sit, the part of the wrap overlap that is around my lap, can gape a bit.

And, well, my lap is not the part of the body where I want any gaping.

So I was actually attracted to The Assembly Line’s Wide Leg Jumpsuit as a way to ESCAPE THE GAPE. The TAL Wide Leg Jumpsuit is a faux wrap, not actually relying on any wrapping function to stay on and off. The front bodice is overlapped and then fully secured to the pants. The combination of the wrap front, v-neck back and generous waist ease (the later is gathered with elastic thread at the back) creates the room needed for the Wide Leg Jumpsuit to be a simple pull-on affair.

A self-tie, which is a completely separate pieces, not an attached one like for the Zadie Jumpsuit, then pulls everything all together.

As you can obviously see from the photos, I didn’t bother with the fabric belt and am happy to wear it with a “real” belt.

Sewing the wide leg jumpsuit

The Wide Leg Jumpsuit is definitely a very easy pattern to sew, which is kind of The Assembly Line’s vibe.

The neckline, sleeves and hems are all formed by simply overlocking edges and folding over once. In all honesty, I was a bit worried about the simplicity of this at the neckline so I ‘ve added a strip of interfacing here to try to prevent stretching out. I’m also a little worried about whether the neckline might roll out and show the overlocking but only time will tell.

One thing I would emphasise, therefore, is that TAL Wide Leg Jumpsuit is a fast sew.

I started to cut out my printed pattern at 1300 in the afternoon. By 1900, I had a completed jumpsuit.

(Disclosure: I had the glorious pleasure of a kid-free weekend when I was sewing this, which makes me feel just impossibly efficient).

I didn’t experience any issues following the instructions and I really like the way it all turned out.

Having said that, I do want to say that this pattern, on my body, is unwearable sans belt.

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I’m not sure if I’ve misunderstood something in the instructions because I’ve seen others saying they can wear it with or without, but for me, this garment is a total hot mess without the belt.

Where the bodice pieces are overlapped and attached at the waist creates something of an upward pull, which manifests itself as almost a blousing effect in the centre of the from bodice. However, this doesn’t continue along the other parts of the waist line where there isn’t the overlap. The centre of the bodice is then being tugged upwards while the edges are not, creating unsightly folds and just general weirdness.

The use of a belt is essential to cover it all up.

The waist is also extremely large although I made it in the size recommended for my waist measurements. Again, based on the size of the waist alone and the way it sits at the back, for me, this couldn’t be worn without a belt. Unbelted, the large size of the waist also looks especially weird because there is elastic gathering at the back but not the front, so the back is pulled inwards and slightly upwards but the front just droops forward, except for in the centre, where it is being tugged strangely upwards.

It’s so super weird that I couldn’t bring myself to even take an unsightly side view photo for you.

Because vanity.

I also have to say that there are other little details I don’t love. On my body, at the shoulder, although it is sufficiently secure, there is still a little sensation as though it is tugging a bit at the shoulder. I also don’t love the way the back v-neck looks. I know that it serves the all-important purpose of making this Wide Legged Jumpsuit slip on and off, but I feel as though it looks like it has been created entirely for this functional purpose, without being really about the design.

The pockets also gape a bit.

Of course, some of these issues could totally be user error! Some of weird back wrinkles seem like they are possibly attributable to cutting slightly off-grain.

Also, on my body, while it is not tight to pull on, it is not effortless. There is a little moment when slipping on the sleeve where I have to do a bit of a shimmy to get into it.

Having said all of this, when I put the belt on, I still feel like a star in this Assembly Line Wide-Legged Jumpsuit. It has exactly the shape and vibe that I wanted. It also succeeds in getting rid of the belly gape problem I have had with the Zadie jumpsuit.

Further, as is par for the course with The Assembly Line, I find that the Wide Leg Jumpsuit really nails its proportions. The v-neck and sleeve length are great and the longer leg creates a great balance.

The crotch and torso length all feel right and it is very comfy once it is on.

Having said all that, I kind of wish I had just sewn a Zadie Jumpsuit instead. The pulling at the front bodice and ill fit around the waist when worn unbelted makes it look like “my first home economics” project and it just feels a bit off.

Plus, the Zadie Jumpsuit also has a long sleeve option which might have been handy for this more winter-y jumpsuit.

Still, I don’t want to complain too much. I do like this Wide Leg Jumpsuit. As long as I wear a belt.

Ahh, the wonder of a belt. It can transform me from Becky Home-ecky to ready to take on the world in an instant.

And that, my sewing friends, is the transformative power of dress.

If you want to see more of my sewing adventures, you can find me on Instagram here.