Zadie, Zadie, Zadie, Zadie…

Can we just officially declare the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory pattern of the year and be done with it?

Look I’m even doing the jumpsuit jump for joy!

I feel like I was waiting forever for this pattern!

I first saw this pattern when it was posted in summer 2018 as a jumpsuit Tara from Paper Theory Patterns had sewn for herself in black linen. Her permanent story about how it was made was enough to make me feel that I needed one for myself.

Immediately.

I hacked the Megan Nielsen Flint Pants and Vogue 9253 into this terra-cotta beauty…

But now, the Zadie Jumpsuit is here and I get to play with the real thing…

And she does not disappoint!

But, as an aside, isn’t it fascinating to see just how different the ‘same thing’ can be? Both my own hack last year and the Zadie jumpsuit are cropped wrap jumpsuits with wide legs and kimono style sleeves. But the ‘real’ Zadie Jumpsuit has a much more relaxed fit and feels a lot more ‘fashion’ than my hacked attempt.

Plus the real one is much easier to sew!!!!!!!

My Zadie Jumpsuit

My Zadie Jumpsuit is made out of this indigo Chambray Linen from The Fabric Store.

It’s a size 12. The Zadie Jumpsuit is touted as being generous fit-wise. I’d already read a few people suggesting theirs were a bit over-sized. My body measurements had me between 12-14 at the hip, 14 at the bust and between 14-16 at the waist. I decided to go down to a straight 12.

I think it’s spot on and won’t change the size for the next version. It is a bit more of a streamlined fit than some Zadie Jumpsuits I’ve seen and I really like it this way. Maybe across the back it is still a bit loose, but I’m saying yes to the comfort factor.

Cuz the Zadie Jumpsuit is like that!

Props for Paper Theory

Speaking of measurements, a kudos to Paper Theory patterns for a couple of aspects of the layout of the ‘preliminaries’ for the Zadie Jumpsuit.

First of all, bicep measurements are included as a finished garment measurement. I really find this an indispensable measurement, yet it is surprisingly rare that it is included. Even if, for a garment like this, it is barely needed, I still like to see it included as often as possible. Let’s make it automatic indie pattern designers.

After all, too tight arms will ruin a garment’s wearability just as much as a too tight waist! (Assuming you don’t have enough fabric left over to re-cut the sleeves…)

The pattern also includes a very efficient layout plan to minimise use and wastage of fabric. Given the typical tendency to over-estimate listed fabric requirements in indie patterns, I found this really refreshing!

If you’re like me and you typically order less fabric than the fabric requirements suggest, don’t try that for the Zadie Jumpsuit!

My only minor changes were that I cut the back bodice piece on the fold, eliminating the centre back seam (this did increase the amount of fabric required). I also lowered the end-point of the crotch 1cm and scooped out the crotch and the butt a little, as these are fairly standard adjustments for me. It may not have even been necessary, given the generous design of this pattern, but it didn’t cause any harm either.

And this is, without doubt, the most comfortable jumpsuit I’ve ever worn, so no complaints in that department!

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Zadie Jumpsuit: Sewing Experience

This was a very pleasant and easy project. Also, surprisingly quick to sew for a jumpsuit!

No closures will do that for you!

A couple of minor points: on my version of the pattern, the sleeve piece was marked “Back Body”. I would imagine this has subsequently been fixed. It wasn’t a hindrance since a sleeve piece is pretty darn obvious and cannot really be mistaken for a back body. But it did give me a temporary “am I losing my mind moment…”

There were also one or two places where I felt that the instructions didn’t necessarily set things out in the best possible order. For example, when you’re sewing the bodice side seam where you need to left a gap for the tie to go through, the instructions have you sew the side seam and then overlock the edges separately.

Well, yeah, you could do that.

But it’s a hell of a lot easier to finish the edges separately before you sew the side seam together.

But these are obviously very minor issues of personal preference. The overall quality of the instructions and diagrams made this project a breeze.

I was kind of rushing this project a little and I found that my pleats had to be adjusted a bit to line up. But, I’m 99.99% certain this was all own error. The construction method also made it very easy to adjust at the pleats, so no drama here!

And finally, given the wraps and the looser style this is actually a project where it really doesn’t matter much at all if your pleats match up or not!

Wish I’d figured that out earlier!

Zadie Jumpsuit: Tips and Tidbits

You don’t really need to hear much from me here cuz the instructions tell you everything you need.

But, you know, I have to justify this blog’s existence somehow, so here are a few little things I found useful.

I hate stay stitching with a passion, so I added 1cm wide interfacing tape around the neckline instead of stay stitching. I think the tape also made it easier to attach bias binding, so for me, it was definitely a no-brainer.

Speaking of which, after, you know, 5 years of sewing I finally bought myself some pre-cut strips of interfacing instead of just cutting it to size myself. And it makes a huge difference in terms of accuracy! This is definitely one of those “duh- should have brought this years ago” moments!

Which, incidentally, brings me to a product I did buy years ago but haven’t managed to use successfully until now.

My bias binding maker!

For some reason, whenever I have tried to use this doo-flicky before, I have not been able to feed the fabric through to start the damn thing off.

Finally, I managed to do so!! The sewing goddesses were smiling down on this Zadie Jumpsuit!

So, between the joys of 1cm wide interfacing tape and getting my bias binding maker to work, I feel like I’m in bias bound heaven with my Zadie Jumpsuit!

Another little tip is that I added some bar tacks at the edge of the pockets to prevent gaping.

The only other change is that I added cuffs to the end of the sleeves. These are simply 5cm wide strips cut on the bias.

Because there’s nothing I love more than a cuffed Kimono sleeve!

The Zadie Jumpsuit you see here is also cut to a longer length. I cut the leg length to the longest length of the pattern and then did a micro-hem. So this combo makes my Zadie Jumpsuit longer in the leg than as designed.

Necking it!

When I’m being super active, I worry this one is a bit gapey around the neck. So far I have worn it both with and without a tank underneath.

My hubby tells me it’s fine without the tank and that he finds it sexy! Which, I guess, is a pretty good indicator that it does gape a little more than is ideal!

I’m a bit worried about how it will go over time. With my own orange wrap jumpsuit hack, the neckline has stretched out a bit with wear, making wearing a tank underneath obligatory over time. I’m a tad worried my Zadie Jumpsuit may end up doing something similar.

I may try to pinch out a bit of the neckline on my next version. Cuz there will be more (hell, there are those sleeves to try out!!).

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit Lovin’

I gotta say, I have a definite crush on Paper Theory patterns and think they’re really one to watch. I love my (several) Kabuki tees and I have been eying off the amazing Olya shirt dress for a while now – I have this striped khaki linen I am fantasizing about using for it…

The Paper Theory instagram account is also one of my favourite accounts to follow.

In addition to adoring the aesthetic of her patterns, there’s a lot more that I admire. Her blog, patterns and insta account have a real slow fashion and sustainability focus. She immediately responded to the call for more plus sizes in the indie sewing world by releasing the Zadie Jumpsuit with an increased size range. Her patterns feature models of diverse backgrounds and ages.

As far as I’m concerned, this is doing indie sewing patterns right!

And the Zadie Jumpsuit, well, this is pretty much doing jumpsuits right.

I can wear this all day long and feel both on trend and casual at the same time. It’s ridiculously comfortable. Perfect for my favorite fibre of all time: linen. No closures to worry about (and so far I have yet to accidentally dip my ties in the toilet bowl – #thestruggleisreal). Generous pockets. A sleeve option!

Ummm, until someone can figure out a way to make a jumpsuit that also washes and irons itself, the Zadie Jumpsuit is pretty much summer jumpsuit perfection…

The only tough questions is which fabric to use for my next one!!!!

Oh and, finally, a little P.S! If you like to get your blog hits through Bloglovin’, feel free to follow me over there: you can find me here. And you can find me on Instagram here.